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San Juan, a night of bonfires and witches

It is time for the witches. It is time for witches’ covens. It is time to get rid of old and useless junk. It is summertime. Saint John’s Day is here. Every year, on the night of 23 until 24 June, many Spanish towns and cities honour this saint with the Hogueras de San Juan (Bonfires of Saint John).

The celebration, originally pagan, celebrates the cyclical changes of nature, the change from spring to summer. As such, the longest day of the year and the associated shortest night are undoubtedly a reason for celebration.

The rite of the bonfire, which is maintained today, involves building towers out of furniture and old junk in order to burn them at midnight in different parts of the cities. It is about getting rid of what we no longer need, of old junk, in the context of this ritual which is full of superstitions and magical beliefs.

Alicante, centre of tradition
If there is a city that pays tribute to Saint John like no other, it is Alicante. Declared a fiesta of International Tourist Interest, Saint John’s Day in Alicante is one of the fiestas which are worth visiting. The “hogueras” (bonfires) or “monuments” are true works of art made from cardboard, wood, paper and paint over many months, by local artists. 

The fiesta of San Juan begins with the Plantá de Hogueras. After 20 June, the artists add the finishing touches so that their monuments and bonfires can be visited in the subsequent days before being burned. 

The bonfires and monuments are characterised by their humorous and critical content. Each district of the city builds its bonfire over a period of months. The presence of music, fireworks and fun becomes key as well as the participation of thousands of people in traditional Alicante dress. Once the bonfires are arranged throughout the city, the celebrations begin along with the sampling of “Bacores” (figs)  and “Coca amb Tonyina” (tuna canapés), which are typical delights. Likewise there are processions such as the Entrance of the Bands, Floral Tribute to Our Lady of Remedy, the patron of Alicante, and the International Folklore Procession.                                

The fiesta comes into its own on Saint John’s Day on 24 June. The most important event on this day takes place from midnight onwards, with the lighting of the majestic “Palm tree” at the top of Monte Benacantil, one of the most beautiful and yet briefest firework displays there are. This is the sign for the entire city to embark on the “Nit de Sant Joan”. This brings the “Cremá” of the bonfires, burning the artistic monuments which have filled the streets of Alicante with colour. 

A Coruña and witches
Galicia, known since time immemorial as the land of the witches, cannot be outdone and also treats the fire festival as one of its most important celebrations. A Coruña is the focus. Streets, squares and districts of the city compete to make the best and highest bonfire of all those burned on this night full of poetic meaning. It is without doubt, about celebrating the shortest night of the year which opens the door to summer. “A Noite da Queima”, the night of 23 June is the most important of the fiesta. A few days earlier the Aquelarre Poético takes place, with the proclamation of the Chief Witch or the Fiesta del Solsticio Poético, at which the Chief Children’s Witch is named.

On 23 June, A Coruña is full of the sound of cornets and drums. Giant carnival figures walk the streets announcing the fiesta. The Chief Witch, Chief Children’s Witch and their respective Witches of Honour walk, in a colourful procession through the main streets of the city to pay tribute to Saint John, to Our Lady of the Rosary, patron of the city and to the heroine María Pita. 

When night falls, a flood of young people start their pilgrimage to the beaches of Riazor and Orzán carrying old boxes and pieces of wood. In this way, on the sandy expanse made up of the two beaches, at the foot of the large bonfire, small pyres made of wood and cardboard start forming, ready to be burned. 

At eleven o’clock at night, the Witches procession along the promenade begins to the sound of music, its destination being the area where the large bonfire is. 

The Chief Witch and Chief Children’s Witch light the bonfire at midnight. It is then that the entire city embarks on a kind of symphony in fire major. Furthermore, many people fulfil the purifying rite of the bath of the nine waves in the calm waters of Riazor, another of the traditional elements at this simple celebration. 

From here onwards the celebration takes place in the street with the big Saint John’s dance on the beach where youngsters continue partying until dawn, perhaps with the aim of watching the “sun dance”. 


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